How I (sort of) met the Emperor of Japan. And Other General Observations

Yesterday, thrown in with old newspaper clippings, I discovered some long forgotten Takashimaya department store gift certificates to the tune of 1000yen- the equivalent of 100eur, incidentally a sum very close to my total net worth as of today Nov 7 2011.

The plan was to have breakfast at the fish market and then walk uptown to Nihonbashi, home of Tokyo’s landmark department stores, Mitsukoshi and Takashimaya.

After the raw fish at 10am (which also makes it socially acceptable to have beer at 10am) and leaving the scent of sea weed behind me, I walked the 15 blocks from the Tokyo wholesale central market and on my way passing the world’s most expensive neighbourhoods, Ginza-Chuo- Chiyoda.  At the height of Japan’s Bubble in 1989, real estate here sold for as much as $139K a square foot– more than 350 times the price of Manhattan’s prime property. This made the land under the Imperial Palace notionally worth more than all the real estate of California. The 80s bubble burst, as bubbles do, and now everyone refers to things like  the ‘lost decade’ and ‘lost generation’ meaning they are no longer the wealthiest in the world, but the 2^nd or 3^rd wealthiest in the world. It is funny how they actually believe this ‘impoverishment’ has put them on par with the Ethiopian orphans.

Back to my 100 euro story.

Takashimaya started as a shop selling kimonos in 3.5 square meters of space, and today with the likes of Galleries Lafayette, Le Bon Marche or the Liberty of London is one of the most beautiful commercial spots in the world.  And here I am holding on to my coupons half expecting them to have expired half a year ago. Let me put things in perspective: while a formal kimono on the 7^th floor can set you back 50,000 euros the 100 euros at Takashimaya will buy you some cosmetics, a small jar of cream or some bath salts.

I left the store pretty quickly wishing to avoid further embarrassment. When I start counting my coupons and the UBS card center refuses to authorize yet another payment, isn’t it more fitting that I stand on a street corner playing music with an overturned hat for collection of change. My true place in the world is with the travelling Peruvian street band and luckily ponchos are making a comeback. Very Missoni.

But without a poncho, without a hope and with the smallest shopping bag containing the smallest perfume bottle I gave up this travesty of a shopping experience and decided it was more pleasant to talk a  walk outside. It was a mild autumn night, 22 degrees at 7pm on a Saturday and the street was beautifully lit and lively with a number of people standing outside the store main entrance. Assuming there was a promotion going on, this was perhaps an occasion to score even more coupons; by staying don’t I increase the chances of getting a free Nivea? Also I hear Korean pop bands are really big in Japan and perhaps the crowd was waiting for Beyoncé of Seoul to make an appearance? With nothing urgent to do I waited…

But it was most peculiar. People looked respectful and solemn; it was highly unlikely they were waiting for a pop sensation. And a minute later when a black car pulled outside the store entrance the entire street broke in spontaneous applause and instantly every passer-by held up his phone ready to take pictures. The car door opened and out came the Emperor and the Empress of Japan!

People believe in Emperor’s divinity as descendant of Amaterasu- Goddess of Sun and seeing a God (of sorts) at a department store on a weekend is a really big deal.

Flashback.  Athens 2009. Was it when Joe Biden or one of the two Clintons came to Greece that we, the residents of Paleo Faliro, had to remove our modest little cars from the streets deemed to close in proximity to the motorcade itinerary of the visiting official?

And how many times have I been violently pushed off the road in Belgrade when a jeep with tinted windows and rotating lights (universal signal for Asshole On Board) carrying some corrupt political puppet who just wants to get home quicker than the rest of us.  Numerous times I have seen the Geneva shops on Rue du Rhone close so the wife of an ‘important’ man could try and stuff herself into a (3 sizes too small) dress with as few witnesses as possible.

Is it any wonder that our politicians, decision makers, fat cats, hereditary or the ones  we ‘democratically’ elect to office live in constant fear of the lynch mob lurking on every corner. They are quite right to feel threatened and to choose complete isolation from those they govern. To the best of their knowledge and the sentiment of the common man – they probably deserve whatever punishment is coming. Just about every citizen of the world I come from feels lied to and swindled, is grossly manipulated and really fed up.  Last week in Greece some MPs had to use the back door to get out of the parliament building for the fear of getting hit on the head with a flying brick. The ruling elite correctly gauges the public resentment, it is surprising no one has brought the guillotine back from retirement.

But in Tokyo, when the Emperor goes about his business the police do not stop the traffic, the city does not grind to a halt, people are not brushed aside like so many insignificant flies. It is a fantastic reminder of how things should be, at seeing the Emperor people may applaud, older ladies may bow but a second later everyone goes back to their activities -uninterrupted! 
Because the Emperor’s presence does not inconvenience the common man, the common man isn’t out to strangle the Emperor or to launch rotten eggs at him , shout obscenities or force him into exile in Switzerland.

The Empress wore a delicate dove grey kimono and went to see the ikebana exhibition on the top floor. I don’t know what the Emperor came to do, but whatever it was, it was done privately, with dignity and style. A man standing next to me commented in English ‘We are very lucky’.

I agree. They are lucky. 
For this man, catching a glimpse Emperor Akihito and the Empress Michiko a sign of good fortune but I consider it a positive reading and a sign of a healthy society. The most recognized man in the country is not afraid of his own people.

For not wanting to inconvenience the citizens of Tokyo by shutting down traffic, riding in a motorcade or annoying fellow shoppers with security guards, attitude and arrogance, the Emperor of Japan, who may or may not be directly related to the Sun God, is definitely a character.



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equality of the sexes